Color Analysis of CHANEL 2010 S/S Haute Couture: 2009

4.24.2009

4.01.2009

After analying the color family of past collections, I combined the analysis to the above table which shows Karl using Achromatic color scheme (colorless;black,white,grey) almost every year with analogous color scheme or (analogic and complimentary color, or monochromatic colour with different tints, tones and shades).

I find that Karl’s favourite colour is white.And, black and white colors are the key colors of the classic Chanel look which creating an elegant mood. That’s why Karl uses Achromatic color scheme (colorless;black,white,grey) almost every year.

Let’s take a look of global real GDP as the follow.

CHANEL target market is affluent old women, thus, I focus on the line of High-income countries only.

Before 2000, the economic situation was quite good, however, it drop significantly in 2001. In 2004, the global real GDP rised to the top and then drop again. In 2008-09, the global downturn triggered by intensifying financial market turbulence.

Compare the above table with global real GDP diagram,
I find that in 1992 and 1994, the color used was more variety, such as in 1994, Karl used analogic and complimentary color scheme and the chroma was higher than recent years.
Analogic and complimentary color scheme was only use twice(in 1994 and 2004 which the global real GDP were both on the top).

After 2004, the GDP drop, therefore, during 2006-2009, the less variety of colors were used(analogous colour scheme used in 2005,2006,2008;monochromatic colour used in 2007,2009).

Engel's law states that as incomes rises the proportion spent on necessities declines and the proportion spent on luxuries rises applies to the pattern of our daily life.
when the economic situation is healthy, desigers tend to be use wide variety of colors, it seems that Karl is also does.

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Regarding the forcasting, I would like to focus on 2010 CHANEL Spring/Summer Haute couture. At the same time, I also have found Chanel S/S readt-to-wear, F/W Haute couture and ready-to-wear collection for reference.

I forecast the color of CHANEL 2010s/s are not so intense, not so bright and not the primary colors but grays, greenish, bluish, taupish tone that are softer and subtler. Because intense, bright and primary color are not the mood of CHANEL and Karl rare use those colors in the past collection. I noticed that Karl use less variety of hue and chroma, but more use of value variety year after year.

CHANEL 2010 color family will between coolness and warmth, black, white and grey colors must be included. Besides using achromatic color scheme as usual, Karl might also use analogic and complimentary color which have not used in recent several s/s collections. The color are similar to transparent, balsa, maquette, ebauche, plan and esquisse that are colorless and sophisticated paleness, something like translucent, whitewashed, watered down and very light one, those are low tint to bring illusion-feeling. The color family is secondary colors in more hue with same tint.

The forecasting of color family of CHANEL 2010 S/S Haute couture is shown as follow.

1. grey

2. transparent

3. ticket

4. ebauche

5. plan
6. black

7. white

8. esquisse

9. maquette

10. vitrine

In 2008, Karl wanted to show the immutability of the brand; in 2009, The floral theme is known as "A white page" and use monochrome white.

“Everthing begins on paper.”says Karl Lagerfeld, "a linear and timeless graphic interpretation. It's like a starting point for the story of this new era, for which all the details still need to be written.

I think what Karl Lagerfeld said must mean something for the next season. A blank paper can allow everything happen. I think Hope and Fantasy-feeling is the theme that Karl want to create next season.

I think Karl would like to draw a dream on a blank page(lining 2009s/s with 2010s/s), the rough draff of a visionary tomorrow: very cold light shades go straight to the point, between plexiglas and wool leaf, to create a world of possibilities. Because the whole world expect and believe the economic situation will be improve next year.

3.21.2009

Color Family of S/S 1992 Haute Couture

CHANEL SPRING SUMMER 1992

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SnzCrTL__M

it uses analogous color scheme of red and blue with different tints, tones and shades.
the accent colors are white, black and green.

3.18.2009

Color Family of S/S 1994 Haute Couture

CHANEL SPRING SUMMER 1994
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbDOEsEaogw

it uses analogic and complimentary color scheme plus achromatic color scheme.

Color Family of S/S 1995 Haute Couture

CHANEL SPRING SUMMER 1995
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efbcc9-q8n4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jr95EQ0IOdI

the main colors are black, gray and white.
it uses achromatic color scheme with different value.

3.16.2009

Color Family of S/S 2002 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2002 Haute Couture

it uses achromatic and analogous color scheme of red and,red-orange,orange,yellow-orange,yellow with same tint.

Color Family of S/S 2003 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2003 Haute Couture

Color Family of S/S 2004 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2004 Haute Couture

During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003、Karl Lagerfeld first showed his own collection for next Spring. He showed some tough shouldered jackets and stiff little skirts、but also a fleet of sinuous slithering sheath dresses、some with Goddess folds、others with silver buckles at the shoulder. He presented some beautiful swimwear and faded denim. He followed up with dainty chiffon dresses and his signature strict black suits with crisp white shirts.

it use analogic of red, orange, yellow, and complimentary color scheme of orange and blue.
achromatic colors, black, white and grey are also used.

Color Family of S/S 2005 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2005 Haute Couture

During Paris Fashion Week in October 2004、Karl Lagerfeld showed his own Lagerfeld Gallery collection for next Spring. On a midnight black catwalk、his white suits were shining. His fedora hats、starched wing collars on dresses and skinny jackets with supertight pants played on the man-woman theme. Feminine pieces also appeared、bloused and pleated dresses in hot pink、pale lavender and yellow and lighter skirts atop stiffened petticoats came down the catwalk. His evening looks which closed the show had a wispy wonderful weightless quality.

this collection used achromatic color scheme with analogic colour of red and blue on different tints.
to have a weightless feeling, low value(adding white)is used.

Color Family of S/S 2006 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2006 Haute Couture

Karl presented his Lagerfeld Gallery Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2005.It is worn with a matching sleeveless jacket.There was a casual feel with raw-edged ribbons of cotton hung from sleeves and wrists of white blouses. He often showed cuffed shorts which are so popular this season. Cotton dresses and brief spencer jackets had peep holes puched through the fabric. Karl said he was inspired this season by Jean Prouve、the modernist French designer and architect from the post-Bauhaus era.

this collection used achromatic color scheme with analogic colour of red and orange, red-violet, violet, blue on same tints.

Color Family of S/S 2007 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2007 Haute Couture

this collection used monochromatic colour of red and achromatic color scheme.

Color Family of S/S 2008 Haute Couture

Chanel Spring/Summer 2008 Haute Couture

Karl showed again the spirit of Chanel , which is immutability of the brand. He pitched the Chanel image toward lightness, freshness, and the young customer he sees emerging in new markets.the collection was partly inspired by the spiraling forms and delicate colors of shells, they built toward some breathtaking moments : a fondant-pink suit veiled in cream tulle, a raw-edged midnight-blue chiffon cocktail dress, a black bustier dress with gold glinting from the inside of its looped-up skirts.

it used achromatic color scheme plus analogous colour scheme( e.g. baby pink, beige ) showed the colors of the shells.

Color Family of S/S 2009 Haute Couture

' A white page'

This collection is like a new beginning. "A white page," says Karl Lagerfeld, "a linear and timeless graphic interpretation. It's like a starting point for the story of this new era, for which all the details still need to be written. That is why I chose paper as the theme for the couture collection this season. "The strong connection between Karl Lagerfeld and this theme gives this collection its intensity, "it's also the fabric that i prefer most... I love paper! Everthing begins on paper. Without paper I would be lost!"This collection is minimal and extremely sophisticated. All of the luxurious details, from the embriodery to the fabris, are more suggested than overt. "It's the new modesty" according to Karl Lagerfeld. These pure, graphic silhouettes often combine two elements: a short top and a straight skirt, both highlighted by lightness and fluidty. The skirts have discrete slits. The removable cap s;eeves conceal the shoulders and sllow for freedom movement.This monochrome collection is first and foremost a "game of lines and shapes," continues the designer. Underneath the geometry and purity of the cuts, it's the floral exploration of the embriodery and the minute details that discretely color this collection. The floral theme is found in the white roses and daisies, with wmbriodered flowers and pateals from the ateliers of Lemaeié and Lesage. It is also the inspiration for the sumptuous hairpieces that the Japanese artist Katsuya Kamo created for the collection. "There is something similar between a flower patel and a sheet of paper" says Karl Lagerfeld.

the main color is white which is one of Chanel label colour.

it use monochrome white.

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Chanel Spring/Summer 2009 Ready to Wear

for the s/s ready-to-wear 2009, Karl Largerfeld used a relatively tight palette of black, white, and gray, he made free with current references to graphic checks. He also used pink in the collection that aims at adding romance in it.

3.15.2009

The History of Chanel from[BroadbandTV]

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 1 [BroadbandTV]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpFw4yZ_ubg

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 2
with*Chanel Spring Summer 1986
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ42zTG11oc

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 3
*Purfum Chanel N'5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9CFx4nJXnk

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 4
with*Chanel Spring Summer 1988
*Chanel Autumn Wimter 1991-92
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnjb6KoNPNk

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 5
with*Chanel Autumn Wimter 1996-97
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qRlke3Bbpc

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 6
with*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2001-02
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDEYIx42Brk

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 7
with*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2002-03
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8ZFZcUvF2c

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 8
with*Chanel Spring Summer 2005
*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2005-06
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-lHwaQecwc

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 9
with*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2005-06
*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2006-07
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6aZYJ7W7lqY

The History of Chanel - Iconic Design - Part 10
with*Chanel Autumn Wimter 2007-08
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WY0JM5Juug

3.09.2009

Designers

Coco Chanel
http://www.artandculture.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/ACLive.woa/wa/artist?id=356

Real name Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (1883–1971), French fashion designer and one of the leaders of haute couture (high fashion), whose name was synonymous with elegance and chic. She was born in Saumur, Maine-et-Loire. In 1914 Chanel opened a millinery shop in Paris. By the mid-1920s she had launched the classic Chanel look, consisting of a casual but extremely well-cut wool jersey suit with straight, collarless cardigan jacket and short, full-cut skirt, worn with Art Deco costume jewelry and a sailor hat over short hair. Her Chanel No. 5, one of several perfumes she created, became world famous. Chanel designed nothing during World War II and its aftermath, but she successfully revived the understated Chanel look in 1954. The American musical Coco (1969) by Alan Jay Lerner and André Previn (1929 ) is based on her life.

Coco Chanel in WatchMojo.com's Women with Mojo Series
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peRLATzHraM

Karl Lagerfeld

The Design Machine

Karl Lagerfeld has an ability to do many things at once and in several languages. He can sit in his antique chair、reading some sublime text in German、some obscure French art book or a stack of English London film magazines. He can juggle designing Chanel collections、Fendi collections、Chloe collections and collections under his own name and plan the complete renovation of some historic house he has bought、all before lunch.

He has a wider range of conversation than the Internet、more books than a State library and more desks and friends than can be counted. Karl does not suffer from stress. The only thing that the millionaire designer fears is - boredom.

In 1938 Karl Lagerfeld was born in Hamburg、Germany of a Scandinavian dairy magnate and his German wife. He afterwards said that when he was 12 years old、he spent 3 hours a day learning French. He said his mother told him that Hamburg was only a door for him.

In 1952 at the age of 14、he came to Paris to study、but he says that he spent most of his time in the studios of the artists who thronged Paris in the 50's and with such men as Jean Cocteau and Jean-Paul Sartre. He says "In the beginning、I wanted to be an illustrator、a painter. I really did not know what I could do. Fashion had always interested me even before I knew it was called fashion. I loved the costumes of figures in paintings and around me." With a passion for drawing、Karl studied history of costume. He would amuse himself by re-interpreting styles of various periods.

In 1954 he saw huge posters all over Paris inviting sketches to be sent to the International Wool Secretariat、for a competition for designs in various categories. He sent in some sketches for coats、and 6 months later、he heard by telegram that he had won the coat category. Yves St. Laurent won the dress category in the same competition. Pierre Balmain was one of the judges、and he immediately hired the talented young Karl Lagerfeld. He stayed there for 3.1/2 years. Karl still has many of the friends he made at Balmain、and a number of them work with him today. In everyone's opinion Karl was extremely gifted and destined for a brilliant future.

In 1958 at the age of 20 Karl became Art Director at the famous house of Jean Patou - designing two haute couture collections a year. In 1962 Karl Lagerfeld signed with the largest departmental store in Japan、ISETAN、to create fashion collections for men and women.

In 1963 Karl left Patou and started free-lance designing in Italy and France. He says "It worked well、nobody had done it quite like that before、it was exciting and right for the time、the mid-60's. Around that time、the idea of pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) was born. A sort of simplified high fashion which anyone could do well. Karl offered his talents to several houses. His goal was to design clothes for as many diverse types of women as possible.

CHLOE Chloe was a house formed in 1952 which made very feminine garments. Karl joined them and within a short while gained a reputation for the house for lightness and youthfulness. His ensembles at Chloe are constructed of several light weight、airy layers、included camisoles、shirt-jackets and sleeveless jackets、used in different ways. Colours were ethereal as the thin silk itself and Lagerfeld experimented with many forms of decoration - painting silk in patterns、using inserts of lace、he tied silk blouses around the waist、wrapped scarves around the hips、made high collars to achieve a look called "Byronesque."

He continued making these beautiful clothes for 14 years until the Fall/Winter 1997 collection、when he handed over the house to Stella MacCartney、daughter of singer Paul McCartney who has brought out her first collection for Chloe、Summer 1998.

FENDI In 1963 Karl Lagerfeld met the women who were to play an enormous role in his life and his career、the 5 Roman women、Queens of top quality furs、the Fendi sisters. They asked him to take over the design of their collections and little by little、they became his second family. Several times a year、he comes to work with them in Rome.

He has gradually expanded their product line to include dresses、handbags、luggage、belts、accessories and many other products. The Fendi sisters love him and say "Karl designs our entire line. It is such a pleasure to work with him because we have been together for years now、and we practically grew up together. We understand him and can pass his ideas on to our customers. We have well-known clients from all over the world、actresses to noblewomen. Catherine Deneuve is very faithful、Ira Furstenburg、Grace Jones、we really value these women who love Fendi and wear it with such class."

In 1975 Karl started Parfum Lagerfeld、a company which produces and markets perfumes such as Chloe、Lagerfeld for men and K.L. His memories of special scents from his childhood was the inspiration.

CHANEL

In 1983、Karl Lagerfeld was given the artistic direction of Chanel at a time when the name had been largely forgotten、remembered only for it's perfumes. He brought new life back into Chanel's shops. The most experienced and talented hands in Paris measured、cut、draped、sewed and embroidered the most expensive garments in the world. The meeting of 2 extraordinary talents、Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfield、has from the very first collection、been a sensation. He has kept to the overall classic lines of Chanel yet updated the added a sparkle to the old house. He did show a lack of respect for Coco when he exposed the one part of the body she hated to reveal - the knee - but his new high hemlines were a smash hit.

The Fall/Winter 1997 collection for Chanel was a major retrospective of Chanel's original styles、her swimsuits at Deauville and her Little Black Dresses.

HIS OWN LABEL

In 1984 Karl Lagerfeld started his own label、and from then on presented 2 collections a year as solely Karl Lagerfeld creations. This has continued inspite of all the other collections he creates. In the late 80's、he took up the design of porcelain for the West German pottery firm Hutchenrehter and has also found time to continue to design for films and the theatre、as well as neckwear and eyewear for all his contracts. In 1986 he launched an American Sportswear line、a semi-annual collection with an American point of view.

In 1987 Karl Lagerfeld was awarded the Golden Thimble the Fashion Industry's highest honour、for the collection of the year.

Karl Lagerfeld now designs more than 20 collections a year. He says "I like being a chamelon、being many persons at once. For me designing is like breathing、I don't think about it. When I sit at a desk at Chanel、I am Chanel、when I go to Rome and sit at Fendi、I am Fendi." He says: "I start thinking about my new collection on the day I show the earlier one. It is the new start that turns me on."

In 2001 and 2001 we are seeing a new slimmer Karl、with an impressive weight loss. This slimline image is the inspiration for his new line of denim. Using his own label、he has collaborated with Diesel on a range of styles to flatter the fit physique.

He also has a hobby of buying and renovating old houses. He is a specialist of the 18th century and considered an expert by the most important antique dealers in the world. Although he is extremely busy、he always takes the time to see houses and give his opinion on antiques、or buy another of his masterpieces.

Spring/Summer 2003

Karl presented his Lagerfeld Gallery Spring/Summer 2003 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2002.

Fall/Winter 2003

Karl Lagerfeld held his Fall ready-to-wear collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2003 and here on the right is an outfit from the collection.

As you can see、Karl has made a play of masculine/feminine clothing、turning the model into a man with legs. It later ran red hot with crimson miniskirts and fur scarves、twinkling patinum mesh tops and embroidered silver overcoats.

Lagerfeld's clothes have been growing stronger each season、and his casual jeans melded perfectly. The designer was at his most graphic melding three or four elements to make one look. It was astreamlined refined ultra-modern collection、vulgarity is out.

Spring/Summer 2004

During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003、Karl Lagerfeld first showed his own collection for next Spring. A dress from this collection is shown on the left.

He showed some tough shouldered jackets and stiff little skirts、but also a fleet of sinuous slithering sheath dresses、some with Goddess folds、others with silver buckles at the shoulder. He presented some beautiful swimwear and faded denim. He followed up with dainty chiffon dresses and his signature strict black suits with crisp white shirts.

Photographer

Karl Lagerfeld is a very talented photographer、with many books to his credit. His interests range throughout the spectrum from Greek Vases to Madonna. Many can be seen below in the list of books available from Amazon. Happy browsing.

Stamp Designer

Among his many talents、Karl is a stamp designer. The French post office has issued two of his designs for 2004 featuring the square Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle.

Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear

Karl presented his Lagerfeld Gallery Fall collection in Paris during Fashion Week in March 2004. On the right is an outfit from the show. His favourite colour was white this time around、opening with a selection of sexy、sportif snow parkas and fur-collared jackets. But he did not forget the evening、showing some slinky chiffon evening wear mingling on the same runway. A few days later、he showed his Chanel show、which you can see by clicking through.

Spring/Summer 2005

During Paris Fashion Week in October 2004、Karl Lagerfeld showed his own Lagerfeld Gallery collection for next Spring.

On a midnight black catwalk、his white suits were shining. His fedora hats、starched wing collars on dresses and skinny jackets with supertight pants played on the man-woman theme. Feminine pieces also appeared、bloused and pleated dresses in hot pink、pale lavender and yellow and lighter skirts atop stiffened petticoats came down the catwalk. His evening looks which closed the show had a wispy wonderful weightless quality.

Karl tries the High Street

Karl Lagerfeld designed a collection for high street fashion gian H&M、which was widely advertised. But one season was enough for him and he did not continue the experiment

Hilfiger buys Lagerfeld

In December 2004、Tommy Hilfiger acquired the trademarks of Karl Lagerfeld for an undisclosed amount. This will help the Lagerfeld brand grow、with Karl still at the creative helm. The deal will not affect Chanel or Fendi where Karl is the creative director. Strangely enough、later on there were rumours that Tommy Hilfiger himself is planning to sell his business.

Autumn/Winter 2005

Karl showed his Lagerfeld Gallery Autumn/Winter during Paris Fashion Week in March 2005. He created super skinny pantsuits and used fur trim on jackets and coats abundantly. Fox fur stoles draped langurously around jersey tops and turtleneck sweaters had funnel shaped collars. He added a great deal of swinging volume to coats to balance the lean dresses underneath. Slipper satin and jersey gowns with twisted halters with a thirties look、were belted with chiffon roses like those used long ago by Vionnet.

Spring/Summer 2006
Paris Fashion Week

Karl presented his Lagerfeld Gallery Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2005. A brown dress with white braiding and big white buttons. It is worn with a matching sleeveless jacket.

There was a casual feel with raw-edged ribbons of cotton hung from sleeves and wrists of white blouses. He often showed cuffed shorts which are so popular this season. Cotton dresses and brief spencer jackets had peep holes puched through the fabric. Karl said he was inspired this season by Jean Prouve、the modernist French designer and architect from the post-Bauhaus era.

Black and white colors are the key colors of the classic Chanel look. white is also the Karl favourite colour.